Note: Again, this is taking forever, so I’m going to try and finish up the rest of the week in my next post. Some of the pictures will be recognizable, but others I haven’t gotten to yet. I’ll rearrange them and properly label them next time, so be sure to check back on this post if you want an explanation for them. For now I’m running out of daylight again.
*A toubab is a catch-all term for a foreigner. It is the person, but it also describes the behavior of the foreigner. White toubabs are the most easily recognizable, but a toubab can have any skin color and speak any language.
So where did I leave off? Moving in? Sure.
Saturday, 17 January
The three Moroccans, Gnagna and I all had lunch around the table in the front room. We had a traditional communal bowl of rice with onion sauce on top, and chicken. Each person eats from the imaginary wedge in front of them, and the host distributes the meat to each person or cuts it up and puts it in the middle. To my relief we ate with spoons. I was a little clumsy eating with my right hand, but not as bad as it could have been.
After lunch I wandered back to ACI (Africa Consultants International, did I mention that before?) and wrote my first blog entry. That took a lot longer than I expected it to, which is why I didn't write about everything I could have.
By the time I left ACI, the call to evening prayer had long since gone, and it was twilight when I got to the house. I hung out in my room for a while (no one else was really about). The five of us had dinner, which consisted of kiefer millet mixed together in individual bowls. Apparently Sunday dinner is traditionally a light meal.
After dinner the Moroccans and I went for a walk around the neighborhood. By the time we were half way through our walk I was completely turned around, and only figured out where we were in general when I saw the giant Mosque that is a short distance from the house.
(btw, someone asked if I can hear the call to prayer. The answer is yes, definitely. There is a Mosque just down the street from ACI that I pass every day on the way between ACI and my house. There is also the large Mosque about a block--not that there are real "blocks" as such--from the house. The call to prayer isn't deafening, but I can definitely hear it.
Monday, 18 January
The next morning I had the usual instant coffee and section of baguette, then headed to ACI. Every morning I am reminded of Professor Yana saying "Here's to it: Utopia ...where it is to be hoped that the coffee is a little less sour." (for future reference, if I quote something and you don't recognize it, it's probably safe to assume that it's from Doctor Who). People tend to stare at the toubab walking down the street every morning, but I think we're starting to get used to each other.
At ACI we had a feedback discussion on our host families, and then an introduction to Senegalese values. This included a traditional lunch, during which I spilled a large quantity of rice on my lap. Part of the orientation was devoted to dividing into pairs and interviewing people about specific Senegalese concepts, and then reporting on them. I got to practice being incomprehensible to a large group. That was super, super fun. Then again, I think it was the first time that I have ever done a presentation in French without practicing prior or bringing notes.
After that we got our phones, which to my pleasure work to call people and receive calls from the US, though it is expensive. I had fun calling people in the US on Marten Luther King Jr. day and waking them up (if you don't have my phone number and want to call me, ask someone who knows it and ask for directions; I don't want to put them here). Thanks to my phone I now finally have an effective alarm clock. I now also have to lie and say that I don't have a phone when people ask me for my phone number, which happens a lot. I was warned against telling people my number and instead just take down other peoples'. Apparently I would get constant calls if I told anyone my number, but it is impolite to refuse, so I have to lie instead. So far it has worked to say that I just got here, but I'm going to have to come up with something else soon.
Not much happened for the rest of the day. For dinner we had fish with French fries, lettuce, tomatoes, cucumbers, and more of that onion sauce. It was quite tasty. I’ve noticed that a lot of the time here French fries are mixed with other things, like in salads or hamburgers. So far I think Khady’s fries are the best I’ve had.
Tuesday, 19 January
On Tuesday morning all we had was a security session and an introduction to the classes that we will be taking this semester. The security lecture was about how to avoid things like pickpockets, which areas of town to avoid, etc. We also learned how to deflect beggars and aggressive vendeurs. The academics session was fairly unremarkable, although I was pleased to learn that one of our classes is going to be on music, which will include music lessons in a choice of instruments. I want to learn how to play the kora, which will probably be hard but looks fun. In case you don't know what a kora is, here's a picture of one: http://badin-yaa.com/images/instruments/kora.jpg .
After lunch I met some of the others and we walked to the ocean. Alexis and Jessicah went running, which I think is pretty crazy in the afternoon of an unseasonably hot day, but hey, at least they didn't make me go with them. The walk to the ocean was pleasantly shaded, and on the way we stopped at a supermarché where I got a mango creamcicle. It was a little odd, but tasty. When we reached the ocean we were on a section with low bluffs overlooking the water. Some of the others picked their way down the cliff but I stayed up top with Katie. Next we checked out the nearby Place de Souvenier, which was completely empty except for a bored looking guard.
Wednesday, 20 January
My alarm woke me up at the correct time, but then I fell asleep again and didn't wake up until 20 minutes until the start of class. That was fun. Thank goodness for Senegalese time. I ate my baguette on the way there. As it turned out, I wasn't even the last person to get there.
We had a brief introduction, and then split into groups for our first Downtown sortie. I was with Thiaba again. We went to lunch first, then we wandered around, past a couple different marchées and around various notable places, including the Place d’Indipendance. It was really hot. Even Thiaba complained about the heat. I decided that it was a good thing that I didn’t know the temperature, because my brain was melting enough as it was. When we were done identifying all the numbers marked on our maps we stopped for ice cream at a place called N’ice Cream. It was very tasty after such a long time in the heat.
When I got home that evening the house was dark, and even though it was barely past sunset I thought I was afraid for a moment that everyone had already gone to bed. It turned out, however, that the power was out in possibly the whole city. I didn’t notice the lights going out because I think I was crossing the highway at the time.
Sihan and Sanda had a couple of friends over for dinner because it was one of the friend’s birthday. I had tea and bowl of nuts with them. It was nice to be able to listen to conversation in French without having to understand or respond all the time. The lights eventually came back on, and we had dinner, with fruit after. I think at least one of the Moroccans was amused by my maladroitness in peeling an apple with a knife.
People
I have mentioned a lot of people, and I know I haven’t explained who most of them are, so here follows a list of people:
Lewis & Clark people:
Katie, Katherine, Jessica Lodel (aka Jessl), Jessica Holms (aka Jessicah), Leah, Alexis, Kelly, Rabekah, and the only guy in the group, Sean.
ACI people:
Samba has been our general guide. I’m not sure what his actual job is in ACI.
Tricia is from Trinidad and Tobago via New York, and helps coordinate our schedule, etc.
Al Hassan is a program director and has lead many of our discussions.
Thiaba has been one of our guides when going about town.
Fatim is another guide.
Host Family people:
Gnagna is my host mother. Her home is a sort of boarding house, and she has hosted several people from ACI.
Khady is the bonne, or maid. She lives in the house. She speaks Wolof, and has even worse French than me.
Sanda is one of the Moroccans, and is the person with whom I speak the most. We have been teaching each other our respective languages. She has completed her studies in medicine and is currently writing her doctoral thesis.
Siham is the other Moroccan. I’m not sure, but I think she and Sanda are sisters. She too is writing her doctoral thesis.
I have concluded that the third young woman who was there on my first day does not actually live there, but is a friend of Siham and Sanda. There is also another tenant who occupies the room off of the front room, but I rarely see her. Gnagna’s son lives there as well, but I have only met him once, and briefly.
Other people:
Ramadan has a tent around the corner from ACI. He serves strong, sweet coffee and likes to help ACI students with their Wolof. He is friendly and helpful.
Bossy (or Boxy) James appears to be (as we were warned by previous students) harmless, but annoying. I can confirm at least the second part. He often hangs out around Ramadan’s tent.
*A toubab is a catch-all term for a foreigner. It is the person, but it also describes the behavior of the foreigner. White toubabs are the most easily recognizable, but a toubab can have any skin color and speak any language.
So where did I leave off? Moving in? Sure.
Saturday, 17 January
The three Moroccans, Gnagna and I all had lunch around the table in the front room. We had a traditional communal bowl of rice with onion sauce on top, and chicken. Each person eats from the imaginary wedge in front of them, and the host distributes the meat to each person or cuts it up and puts it in the middle. To my relief we ate with spoons. I was a little clumsy eating with my right hand, but not as bad as it could have been.
After lunch I wandered back to ACI (Africa Consultants International, did I mention that before?) and wrote my first blog entry. That took a lot longer than I expected it to, which is why I didn't write about everything I could have.
By the time I left ACI, the call to evening prayer had long since gone, and it was twilight when I got to the house. I hung out in my room for a while (no one else was really about). The five of us had dinner, which consisted of kiefer millet mixed together in individual bowls. Apparently Sunday dinner is traditionally a light meal.
After dinner the Moroccans and I went for a walk around the neighborhood. By the time we were half way through our walk I was completely turned around, and only figured out where we were in general when I saw the giant Mosque that is a short distance from the house.
(btw, someone asked if I can hear the call to prayer. The answer is yes, definitely. There is a Mosque just down the street from ACI that I pass every day on the way between ACI and my house. There is also the large Mosque about a block--not that there are real "blocks" as such--from the house. The call to prayer isn't deafening, but I can definitely hear it.
Monday, 18 January
The next morning I had the usual instant coffee and section of baguette, then headed to ACI. Every morning I am reminded of Professor Yana saying "Here's to it: Utopia ...where it is to be hoped that the coffee is a little less sour." (for future reference, if I quote something and you don't recognize it, it's probably safe to assume that it's from Doctor Who). People tend to stare at the toubab walking down the street every morning, but I think we're starting to get used to each other.
At ACI we had a feedback discussion on our host families, and then an introduction to Senegalese values. This included a traditional lunch, during which I spilled a large quantity of rice on my lap. Part of the orientation was devoted to dividing into pairs and interviewing people about specific Senegalese concepts, and then reporting on them. I got to practice being incomprehensible to a large group. That was super, super fun. Then again, I think it was the first time that I have ever done a presentation in French without practicing prior or bringing notes.
After that we got our phones, which to my pleasure work to call people and receive calls from the US, though it is expensive. I had fun calling people in the US on Marten Luther King Jr. day and waking them up (if you don't have my phone number and want to call me, ask someone who knows it and ask for directions; I don't want to put them here). Thanks to my phone I now finally have an effective alarm clock. I now also have to lie and say that I don't have a phone when people ask me for my phone number, which happens a lot. I was warned against telling people my number and instead just take down other peoples'. Apparently I would get constant calls if I told anyone my number, but it is impolite to refuse, so I have to lie instead. So far it has worked to say that I just got here, but I'm going to have to come up with something else soon.
Not much happened for the rest of the day. For dinner we had fish with French fries, lettuce, tomatoes, cucumbers, and more of that onion sauce. It was quite tasty. I’ve noticed that a lot of the time here French fries are mixed with other things, like in salads or hamburgers. So far I think Khady’s fries are the best I’ve had.
Tuesday, 19 January
On Tuesday morning all we had was a security session and an introduction to the classes that we will be taking this semester. The security lecture was about how to avoid things like pickpockets, which areas of town to avoid, etc. We also learned how to deflect beggars and aggressive vendeurs. The academics session was fairly unremarkable, although I was pleased to learn that one of our classes is going to be on music, which will include music lessons in a choice of instruments. I want to learn how to play the kora, which will probably be hard but looks fun. In case you don't know what a kora is, here's a picture of one: http://badin-yaa.com/images/instruments/kora.jpg .
After lunch I met some of the others and we walked to the ocean. Alexis and Jessicah went running, which I think is pretty crazy in the afternoon of an unseasonably hot day, but hey, at least they didn't make me go with them. The walk to the ocean was pleasantly shaded, and on the way we stopped at a supermarché where I got a mango creamcicle. It was a little odd, but tasty. When we reached the ocean we were on a section with low bluffs overlooking the water. Some of the others picked their way down the cliff but I stayed up top with Katie. Next we checked out the nearby Place de Souvenier, which was completely empty except for a bored looking guard.
Wednesday, 20 January
My alarm woke me up at the correct time, but then I fell asleep again and didn't wake up until 20 minutes until the start of class. That was fun. Thank goodness for Senegalese time. I ate my baguette on the way there. As it turned out, I wasn't even the last person to get there.
We had a brief introduction, and then split into groups for our first Downtown sortie. I was with Thiaba again. We went to lunch first, then we wandered around, past a couple different marchées and around various notable places, including the Place d’Indipendance. It was really hot. Even Thiaba complained about the heat. I decided that it was a good thing that I didn’t know the temperature, because my brain was melting enough as it was. When we were done identifying all the numbers marked on our maps we stopped for ice cream at a place called N’ice Cream. It was very tasty after such a long time in the heat.
When I got home that evening the house was dark, and even though it was barely past sunset I thought I was afraid for a moment that everyone had already gone to bed. It turned out, however, that the power was out in possibly the whole city. I didn’t notice the lights going out because I think I was crossing the highway at the time.
Sihan and Sanda had a couple of friends over for dinner because it was one of the friend’s birthday. I had tea and bowl of nuts with them. It was nice to be able to listen to conversation in French without having to understand or respond all the time. The lights eventually came back on, and we had dinner, with fruit after. I think at least one of the Moroccans was amused by my maladroitness in peeling an apple with a knife.
People
I have mentioned a lot of people, and I know I haven’t explained who most of them are, so here follows a list of people:
Lewis & Clark people:
Katie, Katherine, Jessica Lodel (aka Jessl), Jessica Holms (aka Jessicah), Leah, Alexis, Kelly, Rabekah, and the only guy in the group, Sean.
ACI people:
Samba has been our general guide. I’m not sure what his actual job is in ACI.
Tricia is from Trinidad and Tobago via New York, and helps coordinate our schedule, etc.
Al Hassan is a program director and has lead many of our discussions.
Thiaba has been one of our guides when going about town.
Fatim is another guide.
Host Family people:
Gnagna is my host mother. Her home is a sort of boarding house, and she has hosted several people from ACI.
Khady is the bonne, or maid. She lives in the house. She speaks Wolof, and has even worse French than me.
Sanda is one of the Moroccans, and is the person with whom I speak the most. We have been teaching each other our respective languages. She has completed her studies in medicine and is currently writing her doctoral thesis.
Siham is the other Moroccan. I’m not sure, but I think she and Sanda are sisters. She too is writing her doctoral thesis.
I have concluded that the third young woman who was there on my first day does not actually live there, but is a friend of Siham and Sanda. There is also another tenant who occupies the room off of the front room, but I rarely see her. Gnagna’s son lives there as well, but I have only met him once, and briefly.
Other people:
Ramadan has a tent around the corner from ACI. He serves strong, sweet coffee and likes to help ACI students with their Wolof. He is friendly and helpful.
Bossy (or Boxy) James appears to be (as we were warned by previous students) harmless, but annoying. I can confirm at least the second part. He often hangs out around Ramadan’s tent.
are you maladroit peeling an apple because you have to do it with your right hand?
ReplyDeleteI was awkward when peeling an apple because I don't have much practice doing so. But yeah, I'm always awkward when I eat with my right hand. I might be getting better at it. We'll see.
ReplyDeletewhat is that thing behind the tree in picture #27?
ReplyDeleteSo is the emphasis in 'toubab' on the first or second syllable? :P
ReplyDeleteSince I'm vastly ignorant in the matter, is it only eating that you're required to do with the right hand or do you also have to e.g. only write with the right, etc? ...maybe left-handed people travel there frequently to increase their left-handed ambidextrous ninja-sity...
On similiar note, the kora looks/sounds intriguing, particularly as it's nearly person-sized (which I didn't realize from the picture you posted).
I also didn't realize you'd be so easily within a walk of the ocean? (I mean, yes, wikipedia confirmed that Dakar is a port, but it's still a big city and stuff...twice the size of Portland, apparently)
Also the list of peoples is much appreciated ^^
I guess there is a slight emphasis on the first syllable, but not really.
ReplyDeleteThere is no way I would agree to writing with my right hand no matter the cultural taboo. In any case, my impression is that people are allowed to write with left hand. At least, when one person saw me writing here at ACI he mentioned that he was left-handed as well.
It is considered impolite to even do things like hand stuff to people with your left hand, however. The other day Sanda (who is also left-handed) said that she had someone refuse to take something from her when she offered it from her left hand.
Yeah, koras are cool. During lunch at Ile de Gorée a guy serenaded us and the other people in the restaurant. He played it like a double harp. Btw, they're not all person-sized. I've seen ones that range in size between a base to a ukulele.
Yeah, the pictures of the rocks that I posted were about 20 minutes from ACI. I haven't tried to walk there directly from my house, which is probably about 10 minutes from the coast.
The city doesn't seem all that big, not that I've been to most of it. Was that wiki size comparison based on area or population?
Thank you for posting. I like to know that people are reading this. :-P
P.S.
All left-handed people are already ninjas.